Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following people: the staff of the Andalus Apartments, Baghdad, Iraq; the staff of the Toledo Hotel, Ammon, Jordan – particularly Khaled Rushdi & Mohammed Barakat for their help with computer issues; Naside Ozer for providing me internet access and moral support; Savas Ceylan for getting my computer to focus on making this web instead of chasing it's digital tail and writing HTML code;

and most of all, the men & women & children of Iraq who have so warmly welcomed us into their lives ...